Set into the hill behind Koh Touch, if you take the turn off beside White Rose, Happy Elephant has a series of beautifully-put-together wooden bungalows that wind up the hill for some stunning views at the top, or a brand new (in mid-2016) building with spotlessly clean, comfortable rooms.
The operation is run by Ben, with whom we were advised to get in touch before we ever set sight on Koh Rong, and it was good advice. Friendly and helpful, he has a natural warmth and a quiet way of just making everything easier.
The bungalows wind up a steep stairway, so if you think you may struggle, ask for a lower one, or stay in one of the rooms. But, the reward for that climb, and for the very short walk away from the beach front, is that there is less noise to contend with from the party bars in town.
With glass-fronts looking out on to a private balcony and a huge view across the bay, the bungalows are simply decorated with double and single beds, mosquito nets and fan. The bathrooms have showers, where the water pressure is good thanks to the tanks at the top of the hill, and flush toilets. There’s even a small “changing room” with shelves for storage.
The main building was in the last throes of construction when we visited in mid-2016, and there were plans for a restaurant on the roof with views across the bay — until someone blocks it, a risk posed to every view here.
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