Lonely Beach

A long stretch of clean white sand, fringed by palm trees, and scarcely a soul to be seen; Lonely Beach is the stuff of fantasy, and a real retreat from the world. The bungalows are simple and rustic wooden constructions set in the jungle with adjoining open-air tiled bathrooms that come with Western toilets and bucket showers.We liked the bathrooms a lot. A few have sea views and the jungle bungalows really are in the jungle here -- it’s worth bringing a torch. Buried in among the trees, the recently constructed “birds nest” bungalows are cleverly designed, small with a shipwright’s careful management of air and space. 

Leaf-strewn forest trails weave in between the trees to the huts which are spaced out so your only immediate neighbours are jungle critters. They all have private balconies and solar-powered lights -- electronics can be charged in the bar during set hours. With only eight bungalows, Lonely Beach is super chilled and quiet. There’s also one open-sided wooden dormitory block for the budget conscious -- not bad value when it gives you access to the beautiful, isolated beach on the northern tip of Koh Rong. Cleaned regularly, the beach is kept looking picturesque. There are a couple of sun loungers and hammocks to sway in during the day. 

We were warmly welcomed by one of the German owners, who explained their plans for future development of the site in the open-sided restaurant — it’s going to be stunning. The menu, as you would expect, is not the cheapest in the world, but still good value. A fish or chicken coconut curry is $6.50, or two eggs and half a baguette for breakfast is just $2. 

The resort can arrange day trips to Sok San Beach, a seven-kilometre stretch of unadulterated beauty. To get to Lonely Beach you need to take their slow boat from the mainland -- the boat is usually shared with guests going to Palm Beach, which is before Lonely Beach on the way out to the island. The boat leaves Sihanoukville at 13:00 from the Royal Pier and takes three hours. The boat leaves Lonely Beach at 08:00 to get back to the mainland.