Sok San Bungalows

Eleven beach bungalows looking straight out to sea at Sok San, and they are finished with a slightly better cut than the rest.
They’re not luxurious by any stretch, and the mattresses won’t be winning any awards, but the views, and the beach, kind of make up for that. 
Embracing the ethos of basic, with a concrete-floored ensuite bathroom per bungalow, there’s not much to do here other than read, eat, swim and walk to the end of the pier and back to see how far it is, then plonk yourself on your balcony for another laze. The bungalows came under new management in late 2014 and the owner happily provided us with a torch, mosquito coils, battery-powered fan at night, and free welcome drink. Design-wise the bungalows look worn and weathered, though the practical touches meant we ended up more comfortable here than at pricier places elsewhere. They’d also just bought a washing machine should you be in desperate need of laundry to be done. The attached restaurant is reasonable value with a standard selection of Khmer dishes, seafood and the obligatory pancakes. Though sunrise facing, the light did some pretty things come sunset.

Angkor Chom

Angkor Chom is a Cambodian-run guesthouse near the top of the beach whose popularity means all six bungalows are regularly filled with customers who keep extending their stay.

The bungalows are simple, but built directly over the ocean on stilts allowing for an unobstructed view of the sea.

They boast a balcony with chairs or hammocks and wind chimes made from seashells. The ensuite bathrooms have showers and clean tiled floors and generally the standard is a little higher than Sok San Bungalows next door. The place is run by the very pleasant village chief, Mr Chruk, who can organise a boat from Sihanoukville for $20, or you can catch the local ferry for $5 which runs every second day, or the fast boat that goes to Sok San base camp -- though the schedule for this tends to be irregular.

Next to the bungalows on a pier overlooking the water is a restaurant that serves Khmer food with a good selection of the fresh catch of the day. There’s power in the day but not all through the night. Along with Sok San Beach Bungalows, this is the best option in Sok San and is also one of the longer-running establishments along this stretch.

Sok San Beach Resort

Built by the production company that established itself on the island after the success of the Survivor and Koh Lanta series that were filmed here, this 154-room resort is a splendid anomaly atop a glorious white sand beach that has hitherto offered the most rustic accommodations.Long chalets house seven different styles of room, all of which are simply but elegantly furnished, with air-con, tons and tons of storage space, and very comfortable areas for relaxing in alongside the bedrooms in all but one (the pavilion garden view room). 
With beautiful finishings everywhere we looked, attention seems to have been paid to every conceivable detail here, perhaps especially staff hiring. We genuinely can’t say enough about how professional, helpful and thoughtful the staff members that we encountered were. 
The bar and restaurant both open on to the beach. The restaurant offers a range of Khmer and Western favourites at not-unreasonable prices. The wine list was short but beautifully balanced, offering some real stars that you won’t find in many other places in Cambodia. 
Aside from the beautiful spaces in which to lounge, either on the beach, beside the beach or in the bar, they’ve set up plenty to entertain guests who might be feeling a little more motivated. This includes sailing, fishing, cooking, archery, beach volley ball, petanque, a pool table, quad bikes, and more. 
Prices range from $95 to $620, with several choices in between. Highly recommended.

Preak Svay Homestays

Set up as a local initiative by a former employee of the super-swish Song Saa Resort whose islands are just off Preak Svay, this is a community-based tourism project that allows visitors to get a glimpse of local life through homestays and the chance to participate in activities such as trekking, teaching, or sharing skills.
The four homestays are simple affairs, in the homes of local villagers, just as the name suggests. Each one has been kitted out with a mattress, mosquito net and fan, though the village does not have 24-hour electricity. Thanks to the sea breezes, the evenings tend to be relatively cool though, so you won’t be sweating except on very hot nights. The families do not speak English, and the organiser is working with them to help them maximise the experience for the guest, but we imagine there may be some moments of awkwardness. It all makes for better stories though. 

The project is directed by Jonny, the fellow who started it, in order to provide support to the local community in the form of direct income generation for families — so far there are four new homestays, the number of families producing coconut oil has expanded from one to three, locals are employed as guides for trekking and kayaking trips, there is a bag-weaving initiative that has just started — as well as redirecting some of that income into a community fund for local development projects. 

The village is a reasonably typical Khmer fishing village, with a lovely centre filled with palm trees, from whose fruits three local families make the most delicious coconut oil. Rightly or wrongly, they burn it slightly which gives a delicious, distinctive caramel-like smell. 

The easiest way to get there is to book a boat trip tour with Adventure Adam, who will drop you off and pick up two days later. Adam has been working with Jonny for the last year to help develop the project. Those who have skills to offer the village, such as teaching, can stay for free in a special house for volunteers, which was actually the nicest of all of the accommodations that we saw there. 

Meals are usually taken with the families and cost $3/$4 each. A little less for breakfast. Jonny speaks almost perfect English, and is always on hand to help out. He’s a lovely man, who wants the best for this village as much as for the experience of the visitors.

Palm Beach Resort

Opposite the exclusive Song Saa resort, Palm Beach offers the same views at a fraction of the price.Just don’t think about the butler service. 

The beachfront bungalows come in a variety of styles, some built up into the hill overlooking the sea, affording spectacular views, and some wonderful design features — one has a tree growing through it. The carefully made, varnished wooden bungalows come in several styles and prices, and are arranged around a swimming pool that was looking a little the worse for wear when we visited. That may be a low season thing, though. Hammocks are slung in the shade underneath the eponymous tall palm trees, and for more active guests, kayaks and tubes are available to rent. 

The shady restaurant bar is reasonably priced and there’s a beach barbecue every night. The resort runs its own slow ferry directly to and from Sihanoukville, which is arranged when you book at a cost of $25 per person. Take note, if you moor up to the pier with a non-affiliated boat, there will likely be a charge. Mobile phone reception and 3G wireless are available. The only downsides are that the beach at the front is pretty tiny – walk around the side of the resort though and there are other attractive stretches.

Reef On The Beach

Set in among the pines and the cashew trees that populate the back of Long Set Beach (also known as 4K Beach), Reef On The Beach is a good find offering well designed accommodation at excellent prices on what is our favourite beach on Koh Rong.
Long Set is, as its alternative name suggests, four kilometres long, with beautiful white sand, clean water, and just four properties. It’s very convenient to Koh Touch, and everything here is walkable if you have the energy (and perhaps not a wheelie suitcase), or you can take the free pick up from the pier on Koh Touch. 

Reef on the Beach is set up as part of a diving operation, and the reception was filled with diving paraphernalia everywhere when we went to check it out, which looked very promising. They offer PADI open water diving courses for $380, with accommodation reduced to $5 a night, some meals and an open return ticket on the speed ferry from Sihanoukville included.

The bungalows are simple, very, very spacious compared to most, with their own bathroom, shower and wide private balcony.

This is a new operation as of mid-2016, so they weren’t sure yet what the high season prices will be.

Lonely Beach

A long stretch of clean white sand, fringed by palm trees, and scarcely a soul to be seen; Lonely Beach is the stuff of fantasy, and a real retreat from the world. The bungalows are simple and rustic wooden constructions set in the jungle with adjoining open-air tiled bathrooms that come with Western toilets and bucket showers.We liked the bathrooms a lot. A few have sea views and the jungle bungalows really are in the jungle here -- it’s worth bringing a torch. Buried in among the trees, the recently constructed “birds nest” bungalows are cleverly designed, small with a shipwright’s careful management of air and space. 

Leaf-strewn forest trails weave in between the trees to the huts which are spaced out so your only immediate neighbours are jungle critters. They all have private balconies and solar-powered lights -- electronics can be charged in the bar during set hours. With only eight bungalows, Lonely Beach is super chilled and quiet. There’s also one open-sided wooden dormitory block for the budget conscious -- not bad value when it gives you access to the beautiful, isolated beach on the northern tip of Koh Rong. Cleaned regularly, the beach is kept looking picturesque. There are a couple of sun loungers and hammocks to sway in during the day. 

We were warmly welcomed by one of the German owners, who explained their plans for future development of the site in the open-sided restaurant — it’s going to be stunning. The menu, as you would expect, is not the cheapest in the world, but still good value. A fish or chicken coconut curry is $6.50, or two eggs and half a baguette for breakfast is just $2. 

The resort can arrange day trips to Sok San Beach, a seven-kilometre stretch of unadulterated beauty. To get to Lonely Beach you need to take their slow boat from the mainland -- the boat is usually shared with guests going to Palm Beach, which is before Lonely Beach on the way out to the island. The boat leaves Sihanoukville at 13:00 from the Royal Pier and takes three hours. The boat leaves Lonely Beach at 08:00 to get back to the mainland.

Coconut Beach Bungalows

The longest running business on Coconut Beach is lovely Coconut Beach Bungalows, run by a young man from Kampot, who seems to know very well what he’s all about.

Coconut Beach itself is, to our minds, one of the sweetest beaches on Koh Rong, with a small arc of white sand looking out to the southeast topped, for now, by a smattering of guesthouses buried in among the palms. Coconut Beach Bungalows wind around the hill to the left of the beach, with great views across the bay and out to sea. The bungalows are wooden, well-made and spacious compared to their peers, with storage space and a large balcony with comfy seating. The wide beds have very comfortable-looking mattresses, and mosquito nets. You can choose between a bungalow with one or two double beds and, interestingly, there is no difference in the price between them.

If that’s out of your league, you could always try one of the tents pitched up down beside the beach. Two-person tents have been rigged up on wooden platforms and equipped with mattresses, pillows and towels. If even that is too much, you could take a hammock or pitch your own tent, for free.

The bar and restaurant is open-air, with great views across the bay. The menu was designed by a couple of travelling Kiwi chefs, and is commensurately down to earth and hearty. 

Dream Catch Inn

With just a few rooms set over a bar and restaurant, it’s hard to say whether Dream Catch is a restaurant with a few rooms up top, or a guesthouse with a jolly good restaurant downstairs.

We’d opt for the former as the bar and restaurant are definitely in a wildly better state than the rooms, which are not that different from most other rooms in the same price range on Koh Touch. The rooms are basic, with fans and mosquito nets, and very simple furnishings. There’s a nice balcony out front though, where you can get away from the hurly below.They’re still within hearing range of Coco’s, though far enough away that hopefully the nighttime din should recede into the background.

The restaurant has a nice menu, featuring poutine at (no-one ever remembers the poor Canadians), bangers and mash ($4.50), salads, burgers, cheese on baguette melts (including Vegemite or Marmite with cheese). Their breakfasts are the real stand out with a wide range of options at very reasonable prices, considering where you are. The room rates include 10% off meals. We liked the vibe here a lot.

Coco's Bungalow Resort

The first place you’ll see when you step off the Speed Ferry pier from the fast boat is Coco’s Bungalow Resort, with its wide, smooth wood, open-fronted bar and beachside papasans inviting relaxation.

It has an ‘information centre’ – though this seemed to be for the benefit of inviting guests fresh off the boat to stay at their place rather than being manned at any other time, even as the reception area for their own guests. 

Run in collaboration with Koh Rong Dive Centre, Coco’s is the hang-out place to hear tales of diving derring-do and boating mishaps over a beer or three. Barbecues and a full menu are served in the large restaurant and massages are provided from a dedicated hut on the hillside. 

The rustic thatch bungalows climb upwards through the jungle setting and are quite tightly packed. Expect to pay a little more for a basic ensuite bathroom and better views up the hill. The Sea View and Garden View Bungalows have private bathrooms and are perfect if you want to stay in the middle of the village and be close to the bars, but sleep up on the jungle hillside in a slightly quieter and more peaceful zone. There are also three deluxe bungalows built with solid wooden walls which hold up better to the elements, with private ensuites and verandas. 

They also have the only air-con dorms on the island, which are arctically-cold, beautifully laid out modern rooms stretching out from behind the bar. They’ll be even noisier than the bungalows, but then again, perhaps most of the residents will be in the bar anyway.

Proximity to the village, dive pier and other guesthouses means this is a better choice for those who like to be near the action. Not the place to catch up on sleep, but good for being social.

We forgot to write down the updated prices charged for the rooms when we visited here (below are taken from their website), because we were so irritated by the staff, who were among the worst we’ve encountered. This was not so much because they were incompetent — they gave every impression of being able to do their job — it was worse than that; they just couldn’t really be bothered doing it. Once you could get their attention, we were given responses that were dismissive, bossy and just downright rude. They may be dealing with backpackers who, in fairness, might not always be the easiest crowd in the world, but there is no excuse for that attitude at any level in hospitality.

Treehouse Bungalows

You can tell you’re somewhere slightly different from the moment you approach Treehouse Bungalows, no matter which direction you’re coming from.
From the front, the beautifully constructed treehouses peer out from among the treetops, while from Koh Touch, you approach by a carefully constructed garden, which graces your transition from beach to forest. 

This is the furthest away from the noisy nightlife at the other end. There’s a choice of three bungalow types. The seven standard wood and thatch bungalows in the jungle garden are fine for the price, with private verandas with hammocks and round comfy chairs. Then there’s the six-metre-high treehouses on the beach, which are the pick of the property and one of the best options on this side of the island. The treehouses are impressive bungalows that are two storeys off the ground, with a private bathroom on the first floor and the bed and living area on the second. Set directly on the beach and so high up all you can see from your balcony is the sea, this is the stuff of romance. They’re built around the trees that support them so you’ll often find branches snaking through the bathroom. The stairs can be a little nerve-wracking, and surely eventually a backpacker will come crashing down to earth after a few too many Angkor beers. There are also ground level beachside bungalows. A small bar and restaurant has seating great for lounging and the chef prepares authentic Italian meals with the help of a wood-fired pizza oven. WiFi is available in the restaurant. We found the service to be challenging, however.

Happy Elephant

Set into the hill behind Koh Touch, if you take the turn off beside White Rose, Happy Elephant has a series of beautifully-put-together wooden bungalows that wind up the hill for some stunning views at the top, or a brand new (in mid-2016) building with spotlessly clean, comfortable rooms.

The operation is run by Ben, with whom we were advised to get in touch before we ever set sight on Koh Rong, and it was good advice. Friendly and helpful, he has a natural warmth and a quiet way of just making everything easier. 

The bungalows wind up a steep stairway, so if you think you may struggle, ask for a lower one, or stay in one of the rooms. But, the reward for that climb, and for the very short walk away from the beach front, is that there is less noise to contend with from the party bars in town. 

With glass-fronts looking out on to a private balcony and a huge view across the bay, the bungalows are simply decorated with double and single beds, mosquito nets and fan. The bathrooms have showers, where the water pressure is good thanks to the tanks at the top of the hill, and flush toilets. There’s even a small “changing room” with shelves for storage. 

The main building was in the last throes of construction when we visited in mid-2016, and there were plans for a restaurant on the roof with views across the bay — until someone blocks it, a risk posed to every view here.

White Beach Bungalows

Tucked into the corner at the far end of the beach, White Beach Bungalows is about as far away from the heart of the backpacker throngs and the loud music on Koh Touch as you can get, but still only a 10-minute walk away.
Owned by the same people who have Coco’s and the Treehouse, though blessed with staff of an entirely different order — i.e. they’re polite, professional and friendly — White Beach has sturdily attractive wooden constructions with glass-fronted doors and private balconies looking out on to the white sands and crystal waters of the bay. These bungalows are plush for Koh Touch with more privacy than most other options due to its position just off the sand amid green gardens at the end of the beach. Although still overall basic and incomparable to hotels on the mainland, out of all the bungalows we’ve looked at in Cambodia we would rate their large bathrooms highly thanks to their tiled floors, pebbled and wood walls and ceramic sinks. The bungalows winding their way, somewhat precipitously, up the hill are slightly cheaper than the beach front ones, but offer better views, so take your pick. The staff here were totally on the ball, and delightfully helpful.

Paradise Bungalows

Paradise is the well-named long-timer on the southeast side of Koh Rong.

And as evidence of its enduring popularity, it was fully-brooked doing our last visit in mid-2016, even during low season.

On a previous visit, the affable German manager, Rudy, explained that although he does get some backpacker clientele, he usually sells more wine than beer and customers relax to classical music and ambient soundtracks in the spectacular restaurant and lounge area made from recycled teak from the island. On that note, they do often promote their wine selection, which we found to be actually surprisingly small, and includes Kangaroo, one of the poorest wines available in Cambodia. Don’t order it. An elevated wooden platform overlooking the beach and hung with bamboo lamps, the restaurant is beautiful and serves Khmer and European food such as bacon-wrapped chicken, mango chutney, wraps and schnitzel.

The bungalows are also appealing, stretching up the hillside through the maze-like tropical garden. Each bungalow has a private balcony with a swing and couched lounging area, and the bathrooms in the more premium options are the nicest you’ll find on the island with stones inlaid into the floors and in outdoor garden areas. We’d skip the entry-level bungalows, highest up the hill, as the bucket-shower bathrooms are basic and not really worth it for the price. The beachfront bungalows are reasonable, with safety deposit boxes and large outdoor bathrooms with gardens. While these bungalows rely on fans and sea breezes, there are also gorgeous stone houses which offer air-con for those who can’t live without it. These are the most luxurious on the island.

The whole resort is solar powered, meaning bungalows have light and energy throughout the night (18:00-07:00) courtesy of their roof panels. The restaurant also has WiFi, making it unusual on the island. Book early if your trip coincides with any major international or Khmer holidays as this place is very popular with expats and returning visitors.

Bong's Guesthouse

Hard to go wrong at Bong’s: Set up by a British husband and wife duo, Bong’s is a simple guesthouse with two dorms room sleeping six or eight and a couple of private rooms – pick between a private double with shared bathroom or private ensuite rooms with wet bathrooms.In an effort to overcome the waves of bed bugs that frequently wash over Koh Rong — we were bitten for the first ever time while staying at another property on the island — in 2016 Bong’s replaced all of their wooden bed frames with metal ones so that the evil little buggers have nowhere to hide. Aside from offering good value digs in their own right, the price also includes free tea and coffee all day, free water refills, and all-day happy hour as well as seasonal food promotions. 

Bong’s main selling point though is the bar, where you’ll find excellent live music — with the eminently sensible policy of a firm prohibition on Nickleback and wailing renditions of Wonderwall — well-put together food including, they say, the best burger in town, and a staff that has studied the divine arts of how to make party. There seems to be a fairly constant buzz going on at the bar all day long, and the atmosphere is one of easy amiability.

Where To Stay In Koh Rong

Monkey Island
Doing what they do best, Monkey Island is the work of Sihanoukville’s Monkey Republic, and attracts a similar, youngish crowd looking for a party and the chance to meet other travellers.

Nineteen bungalows are scattered on and behind a picture-perfect white-sand beach. They can take either three or four sleepers, all have fans and mosquito nets, and private balconies. They also have fire extinguishers – the only ones we saw on the island – and large safety boxes. The bungalow walls are made in a traditional method using layers of thatch. A generator runs from dusk till 23:00ish nightly, but by then it has cooled down enough that fans are superfluous, except for a couple of particularly hot spells during the year.

Monkey Island’s big shady bar and restaurant looking out to sea is a social hub -- it was designed for socialising and they’ve even got a few bartenders with fire-spinning skills to keep the party lively. The restaurant serves a variety of delicious Western and Khmer dishes but their Thai food is exceptional, especially given the remoteness of the island. Food and drink prices are quite low -- drinks are at the same prices you’ll find on the mainland. Staff are very friendly and professional. Snorkelling gear is available to rent for $2.50. The property is in about the middle of the beach – neither crammed amid the tightly packed guesthouses, nor at the far stretch where accommodation is more spaced out and quiet.